Kashmir: The Trip That Left Us More Stressed Than Before

What if we told you that our trip to Kashmir, the so-called heaven on Earth, was one of our worst travel experiences so far? We came back from Kashmir more stressed than we were before the trip.

We had been looking forward to Kashmir for a long time. We had seen the snow-covered mountains, the shikaras on Dal Lake, the pine forests, the beautiful valleys and all those impossibly pretty pictures that make Kashmir look like a dream. Since it was our first time there, we spent quite a bit of time planning the trip.

Instead, what we found was a destination where we constantly felt like we were negotiating, questioning prices, dealing with vendors or figuring out what was and wasn't included in something we had already paid for. There were, of course, moments when Kashmir looked exactly like the pictures. Doodhpathri, with fresh snow falling around us, pine trees covered in white and a river flowing through the valley, was one of those moments. Sitting there, away from everyone, we finally understood why people call Kashmir heaven on Earth. But getting to that peaceful moment was exhausting.

This is not a blog telling you that Kashmir isn't beautiful. It absolutely is. In fact, some of the prettiest places we saw on the trip are still very clear in our heads. This is about everything around those places that made the trip so stressful for us. And maybe, if you're planning your first trip to Kashmir, knowing what we experienced will help you prepare a little better.

Starting the Trip in Jammu

Our trip to Jammu & Kashmir actually started with a wedding. One of our friends is from Jammu and was getting married in February 2025. He invited us to Jammu for the wedding, and since we were already travelling all the way there, we decided to extend the trip and spend a few days in Kashmir as well. We spent two days in Jammu, although most of our time went into the wedding events.

Our friend had booked Hari Niwas Palace for some of the functions and had arranged a room for us there. The palace was built in the early 20th century by Maharaja Hari Singh, the last reigning monarch of Jammu and Kashmir, as a private riverside residence and guest house. It has since been converted into a hotel.

Right next to it is Amar Mahal Palace, which has been converted into a museum and library. We visited the museum in between the wedding events. The museum itself had the usual things you'd expect in a royal residence - paintings, artefacts and a gold throne - but the part we found most fascinating was the room of Maharani Tara Devi, the wife of Maharaja Hari Singh. Her bedroom, clothes, heels and even her washroom have been preserved and displayed. There was something oddly fascinating about seeing these very ordinary details of someone's life inside a royal residence. You can read about royalty and see photographs of palaces, but seeing someone's actual bedroom, clothes and shoes makes it feel much more real. It gave us a small glimpse into what everyday life looked like for royalty back then. The library, unfortunately, was closed to the public and is accessible only to scholars and professors.

We didn't get much time to explore Jammu beyond this because of the wedding, but we actually liked the vibe of the city. It felt like somewhere we'd happily come back to for a proper trip. So Jammu went on our list for another time. And then, after the wedding was over, we headed to Kashmir.

We had planned four nights in Kashmir and took a flight from Jammu to Srinagar. We landed in Srinagar in the afternoon, dropped our bags at the hotel, freshened up and headed straight out. And that was when the trip really began.

Day 1

Our first stop was Dal Lake. We booked a cab from our hotel and headed towards the lake. One thing we liked about Srinagar was that Ola and Uber worked there, so getting around the city was relatively easy. Once we reached Dal Lake, our driver asked if we wanted to do a shikara ride and took us to one of the counters.

It was a sunset shikara ride, which tends to be more expensive, and the people at the counter started quoting some pretty hefty prices. We aren't great at bargaining, and honestly, when vendors see tourists who aren't negotiating much, they know they can probably get away with quoting a little more. We eventually booked the ride for around ₹2,000 for two hours. Even now, we wonder why there isn't some sort of fixed pricing system for shikara rides. It would make things much easier for both tourists and the vendors. Anyway, after all the haggling, we finally got onto the shikara. And this is where Kashmir started looking exactly like the Kashmir we had imagined.

We started around 5 PM and the rider took us around the lake. We saw the floating gardens, although in February they looked more like floating patches of grass. We stopped at a small Maggie floating shop and had some Maggie. There were also shikaras and shops selling stones, jewellery, saffron and other things, but we decided not to shop. At one point, we remembered seeing a video of someone selling tandoori snacks like mushrooms and paneer from a shikara, so when we spotted something similar, we stopped to try it. It was around ₹250 for half a plate. And it was probably one of the worst things we've ever put in our mouth. It was hot, so it tasted okay initially, but the cold winds meant it got cold really quickly. And once it was cold, it tasted terrible. Definitely not worth the hype. But the sunset made up for a lot of it.

As the sun went down, the sky changed colours and for a few minutes it genuinely felt like we were riding straight into the sunset. We also passed through the floating market, and before we knew it, evening had turned into night. And then it got really cold. Cold enough that I think I had some sort of brain freeze. I honestly don't remember much after that. I just remember being extremely cold and somehow finding the same cab driver waiting for us. We were slightly suspicious about why he was still waiting, but at that point, we didn't have the energy to think about it too much.

We asked him to take us to Ahdoos. And that turned out to be a very good decision. Ahdoos is known for its wazwan, but since we don't eat mutton, we ordered butter chicken and some breads. And it was, without exaggeration, the best butter chicken we had on the entire trip. It was so good that we went back to Ahdoos the next day.

Day 2

We had booked a cab for three days starting from Day 2. Our plan was to spend the day exploring Srinagar and then head to Pahalgam the following day.

We started with Shri Shankaracharya Temple. The cab dropped us at a security checkpoint and, surprisingly, the checking was quite strict. The temple is heavily secured, and cameras aren't allowed, although you can carry your mobile phone. After climbing around 200 steps, we reached the temple. And the view from the top is probably the best way to take in Srinagar. You can see the entire city, Dal Lake and the Jhelum River winding through Srinagar.

We hadn't planned much else in the city that day. We thought we'd explore the markets after coming back from Pahalgam. Instead, we decided to head to Doodhpathri. Doodhpathri is around two hours from Srinagar, and this is where things started getting frustrating. Our cab stopped at the parking area near the entrance. From there, you can take your own vehicle after paying the entrance fee, or you can hire an ATV or a pony to take you towards the viewpoint.

And when I say there were vendors, I mean there were vendors everywhere. There must have been hundreds of people trying to sell ATV rides or pony rides. We were quoted around ₹8,000 for two ATVs. Eight thousand rupees. For someone who hates touristy places and had specifically chosen Kashmir hoping to experience its mountains and landscapes peacefully, this was extremely irritating. We seriously considered walking the entire drivable stretch instead. But it was going to take around two hours, and we didn't have that much time. Nobody was really approaching me, which, for the first time in my life, I was thankful for because the men kept approaching my partner instead. We said no to what felt like at least 20-30 people while trying to understand how the whole system worked.

Eventually, we figured out that we needed to rent an ATV. We negotiated with one of the riders and asked if the two of us could go on one ATV. He agreed. I think we paid around ₹1,500 for it. He took us towards Doodhpathri and agreed to take us through the meadows on the way back. And then, as soon as we reached Doodhpathri, it started snowing. The first few minutes were dreamy. Fresh snow falling around us, mountains covered in white, pine trees everywhere and a river flowing through the valley. This was the Kashmir we had come for.

When I think about Kashmir now, this is the place I try to remember. Unfortunately, that feeling didn't last very long. As soon as we started walking towards the viewpoint, another group of men surrounded us, offering to take us to another viewpoint on horseback. We didn't even know there was another viewpoint. It started feeling like there was always another thing to pay for. You said no to one offer, and someone else appeared with another one. We said no again and started walking towards the river. There were a lot of people around that area, so we walked a little further towards the mountains to find somewhere quieter. And thankfully, we did.

We found a peaceful spot where nobody bothered us. We sat there for around half an hour, just looking at the river flowing below us and the pine trees covering the mountains around us. For those thirty minutes, everything felt perfect. No vendors. No bargaining. No one trying to sell us something. Just us, the snow and the mountains. And that was probably the best part of Doodhpathri.

After spending some time taking pictures by the river, we called our ATV rider. He took his sweet time coming back. Eventually, he picked us up and dropped us at the meadows. In February, the entire meadow was covered in snow. We walked a little inside and found a patch where nobody had stepped yet. We made little butterfly shapes in the snow and spent some more time there. Again, our ATV rider disappeared.

We waited for him for a while, and then he insisted that my partner ride the ATV himself for a few metres. I sat behind him, and then rider clicked lots of pictures of us. Eventually, we made our way back to Srinagar.

By the time we reached the city, we were exhausted. So, naturally, we went back to the same restaurant we'd loved the previous night. This time we ordered chicken rogan josh with bread. Again, the food was great.

Day 3

The next day, we left for Pahalgam. Pahalgam is around 2.5-3 hours from Srinagar, and we travelled by cab. The drive was beautiful in parts. We passed apple orchards, although February isn't exactly apple season, so there were no apples and most of the trees didn't even have leaves. Our driver stopped at one of the apple orchard shops, and we bought some apple pickles. Unfortunately, even though we kept them in the fridge after coming home, they developed fungus within a month or two. So maybe skip the apple pickle.

We had booked a hotel in Pahalgam and went straight there for lunch after reaching.

We rested for a bit and then decided to make something out of the evening. We asked our cab driver to take us to the restaurant at the ITC hotel. And that's when another argument started. Our driver complained that the agreement was to take us to the hotel and tourist spots, and since he had already brought us to Pahalgam, he should now be free. We told him that we'd been told the cab would remain with us for the three days, up to around 10 PM. The problem was that none of these conditions had been clearly explained to us beforehand. Was the cab meant to take us only to designated tourist spots? Could we ask him to take us to a cafe or restaurant? These are things we wish had been clarified before we booked the cab. Eventually, he agreed to take us. But by then, the mood had already been spoiled a little.

Day 4

The next day was reserved for what is probably the most popular Pahalgam itinerary, the famous ABCs.

Aru Valley, Betaab Valley and Chandanwari.

One thing you should know about Pahalgam is that you cannot simply take your outside vehicle everywhere. Even if you've brought your own car, you have to use local taxis for these sightseeing points. Our Srinagar cab dropped us at the point where the local taxis were parked. Thankfully, this was one place where we didn't have to bargain. The rates were fixed. The ABC package gives you about an hour at each location, after which you pay 200 extra by the hour.

We decided to take the full-day sightseeing package and told the driver that we mainly wanted to visit the ABC points but would also like him to stop wherever he saw a good view along the way. Looking back, this was actually a good decision.

Our first stop was Aru Valley. There was an entrance fee, and once again, vendors were waiting around offering pony rides to other viewpoints. The valley itself was pretty, with pine trees around, but there wasn't much for us to do. We walked around for a bit and left after about half an hour.

Next was Betaab Valley. There was an entrance fee here as well, but we liked this one much more than Aru. The entire valley was covered in snow, with a river flowing through the middle. We spent more time here, sitting around, eating some snacks and taking pictures. There were vendors here too - someone with a rabbit, others offering local clothes for photographs and, of course, ponies to take you to another point up in the hills. But we mostly ignored them and enjoyed the valley.

Our final stop was Chandanwari. There was no entrance fee here. It is also the starting point for the Amarnath Yatra. There were mountains surrounding the river stream, and everything was covered in snow. There were plenty of shops along the way until you reached the river, and we stopped at one of the dhabas for some food. After spending some time there, we started heading back.

And this is where having the full-day taxi package worked in our favour. Instead of rushing between the three main points, our driver stopped at several places along the way whenever there was a good view. We stopped at a river point, and he also took us to a spot from where we could see the entire Betaab Valley from above. On the way back to Pahalgam, he even stopped at a hill viewpoint from where we could see the houses scattered across the town. Those little stops ended up being some of our favourite parts of the day.

And yet, when we think back about the ABC tour, we still don't feel it was worth all the effort. Maybe it is completely different in summer, when everything is green and vibrant. But in February, it didn't feel particularly special to us. For us, Doodhpathri was far better.

Why We Skipped Baisaran Valley

We had originally considered visiting Baisaran Valley as well. But after reading a lot of reviews, we decided to skip it. To get there, you have to start from a particular point in Pahalgam and then travel around 7 km towards the valley, usually on ponies. You can walk as well, but the road can apparently be difficult to walk on because of the amount of pony poop. There were also reviews about poorly maintained ponies and people almost falling when the animals slipped while climbing. We did hear that the views from the top are breathtaking. But the whole experience sounded like too much effort for something we weren't convinced we'd enjoy, so we skipped it. Later, in April 2025, we heard about the attack in Baisaran Valley and, honestly, it shook us to our core.

Day 5

The next day, we headed back to Srinagar. Our flight was in the evening, so we planned to spend some time in the city before heading to the airport. Naturally, we asked our driver to take us to Lal Chowk. And once again, we ended up arguing. The driver said that Srinagar sightseeing was only for the first day and that because we'd chosen the Shankaracharya Temple and Doodhpathri, we couldn't use the cab for sightseeing on another day. We were genuinely confused. We had paid for a three-day cab, and during the Pahalgam day, the driver had mostly been sitting and waiting for us. Nobody had told us that the final day couldn't be used for anything else. We were coming back from Pahalgam, had a flight in the evening and obviously wanted to do something before leaving. Why this hadn't been clarified beforehand, we don't know. After another argument with the owner, the driver finally agreed to take us to the market.

We walked around Lal Chowk for a while and had biryani at a local place. It wasn't that good. One thing we noticed in the market was the heavy security presence. There were commandos positioned on the upper floors of buildings, carrying guns and keeping watch over the market. We understand why security was necessary, but seeing it so visibly everywhere felt strange. Instead of feeling protected, it somehow made the whole place feel more intimidating.

We spent some time walking around, took a few pictures in front of the famous clock tower and eventually left for the airport.

And Then There Was the Airport

If we thought the security in Lal Chowk was intense, the airport took it to another level. At the entrance, we got out with all our luggage and everything went through scanners. We then loaded everything back into the cab. The cab dropped us at the departure gate, where our check-in luggage were scanned again. And then, while boarding the flight, our carry-ons were checked yet again. We have travelled through quite a few airports in India, and we'd never experienced this much checking. At that point, we just wanted to get on the flight.

For the first time in our lives, we were actually glad that a trip was over.

Some observations

We don't think Kashmir is a bad destination. It is beautiful, and there were definitely moments during the trip when we understood why it is called heaven on Earth. But our experience also made us realise that travelling through Kashmir requires a slightly different approach from the kind of travel we usually enjoy.

• Travelling in Kashmir means you need to be comfortable bargaining. We're not great hagglers, and that definitely didn't help. If you're like us and hate bargaining, be prepared for some frustrating moments.
• Be ready to be disturbed by vendors wherever you go. At Doodhpathri, there were what felt like at least a hundred vendors trying to sell ATV or pony rides. The problem wasn't just that people were selling things. It was that we rarely got to experience a beautiful place without someone approaching us.
• We found the Pahalgam taxi system very frustrating. We understood that local taxis operate in certain sightseeing areas and that outside vehicles have restrictions. If someone brings their own car and is stopped from entering certain areas, we can understand that to some extent. But when you've already brought a cab from Srinagar and it can't take you around Pahalgam, it feels unnecessarily complicated. We were especially confused about why our Srinagar cab could take us all the way to Pahalgam but couldn't take us to places within the town.
• We spent a ridiculous amount of time looking for a hotel. Our criteria aren't complicated. We want something mid-budget, a decent room and, most importantly, a clean bathroom. But everything that looked genuinely decent was significantly more expensive than we'd expected, while the hotels within our original budget didn't look worth the price. We eventually ended up spending a little more on hotels than we had planned.
• Clarify everything before booking a cab. This is probably the biggest practical lesson we took from the trip. Ask a lot of questions. Will the driver stay with you throughout the day? Can you use the cab to go to restaurants and cafes? Can you change your plan? What happens if you decide to explore somewhere that wasn't in the original itinerary? We've faced this sort of confusion in other places too, but in Kashmir it affected our experience enough that we'd definitely be more careful next time. Nothing ruins a travel day faster than standing on the side of the road arguing about what you thought you had already paid for.

So, Would We Go Back to Kashmir?

This is probably the question we'd get asked after writing all of this. And honestly, we're not sure.

The funny thing is that when we think about Kashmir, we remember two completely different experiences. One is the Kashmir from the pictures: snow-covered mountains, pine trees, rivers flowing through valleys, a shikara ride into the sunset and sitting quietly in Doodhpathri with nobody around. That Kashmir was beautiful.

The other Kashmir was constant bargaining, vendors following us around, confusing taxi arrangements, arguments over what was included and the feeling that we always had to be on our guard about what we'd be charged next. That Kashmir was exhausting.

For us, Doodhpathri was far better than the ABCs of Pahalgam. We didn't visit Gulmarg or Sonamarg, so we obviously can't comment on those experiences. Maybe Kashmir in the summer is a completely different place, and perhaps the green valleys and warmer weather would have changed our perception.

But based purely on our February trip, Kashmir didn't feel like the peaceful getaway we'd imagined. It was beautiful, but it was also exhausting. And sometimes both things can be true at the same time.

By the time our flight took off from Srinagar, we weren't thinking about when we'd come back.

We were just happy to be going home.

Hotel in Srinagar - https://booking.stay22.com/twogetherlost/UXZonEwbc7

Hotel in Pahalgam - https://www.makemytrip.com/hotels/hotel_royal_grandiose-details-pahalgam.html

Google maps we followed -

Over the years, we've been building a collection of everything that makes our journeys a little easier. From the cameras and gear we film with, to our road trip essentials, travel accessories, camping equipment, and even a few everyday favourites that we genuinely love. We keep updating this list as we discover better products and learn from every trip. If you're curious about what we carry on our adventures, you can explore our complete gear list here:

🔗 https://linktr.ee/twogetherlost

🩵 Some of the links above may be affiliate links. If you choose to purchase through them, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We only recommend products we genuinely use and love. Thank you for supporting our journey.

If you have any questions or suggestions, drop them in the comments below. We’re a new travel blog, so don’t forget to follow us on our socials for more updates!